Choosing 14 inch apes is one of those decisions that can completely transform how your bike feels and looks from the second you sit in the saddle. It's a classic upgrade, maybe the most popular one in the V-twin world, and for good reason. When you're looking at your stock bars and thinking they feel a bit "cramped" or just look a little too much like every other bike in the parking lot, the jump to a taller set of bars is usually the first thing on the list. But the big question is always: how high do you actually go?
Finding the comfort zone
The reason so many riders land on 14 inch apes is that they sit right in that "Goldilocks" zone. If you go with 10 or 12-inch bars, they're nice, but sometimes they don't feel like enough of a change from the stock setup. If you jump all the way up to 18 or 20 inches, you're basically hanging from a jungle gym, and while that looks killer, your hands are going to go numb after about thirty minutes of highway riding.
With 14s, most guys find that their hands sit right around shoulder height, maybe a hair lower depending on their height and the seat they're using. This is huge for long-distance comfort. When your hands are level with your shoulders, it takes the pressure off your lower back and allows you to sit more upright. You aren't hunched over like you're trying to hide from the wind, but you aren't reaching for the sky either. It's a natural, relaxed position that lets you put in some serious miles without feeling like you need a chiropractor the next morning.
How they change the look of the machine
Let's be honest, we don't just swap bars because our backs hurt; we do it because we want the bike to look mean. There is something about the silhouette of a Road Glide or a Heritage Softail with 14 inch apes that just looks "right." It gives the front end some much-needed attitude without making the bike look caricature-ish.
The height is significant enough to notice from a block away, but it still follows the lines of the fairing or the forks. If you've got a big touring bike, 14s fill out that space above the fairing perfectly. On a stripped-down bobber, they provide that tall, slender profile that defines the classic chopper aesthetic. Plus, you have choices in how they're built—you can go with the traditional round "Bagger Bars" or those aggressive "Meat Hook" styles with the sharp points at the top. Either way, the 14-inch height seems to be the sweet spot where the style doesn't compromise the ride.
Handling and the "Leverage" Factor
A common worry for people switching to apes for the first time is that the bike is going to handle like a shopping cart with a bad wheel. It's a fair concern. When you move your hands higher, you're changing the center of gravity and the way you input steering. However, once you get used to 14 inch apes, you might actually find that you have more control over the bike, especially at low speeds.
Because the bars are wider and taller, you have more leverage. It's basic physics—it takes less effort to push that bar away from you to initiate a turn. Flicking a 900-pound bagger through a tight corner feels a lot lighter when you've got that extra leverage. Now, I won't lie to you; the first ten minutes are going to feel weird. You'll feel like you're steering a boat. But once your muscle memory kicks in, you'll realize how much more "flickable" the bike feels. The only real downside is high-speed highway cruising where your body acts like a sail, but that's just part of the wind-in-your-face experience, right?
The installation reality check
Now, let's talk about the part everyone hates: the installation. If you're eyeing a set of 14 inch apes, you need to be prepared for the fact that your stock cables and wires probably aren't going to make the trip. Most bikes can handle 10s or maybe 12s with some clever re-routing, but at 14 inches, you're almost certainly looking at an "extensions" situation.
You're going to need longer brake lines, a longer clutch cable (or hydraulic line), and wiring extensions for your hand controls. It's a bit of a project, and honestly, it's where most of the cost goes if you're having a shop do it.
Then there's the joy of internal wiring. If you want that clean look where no wires are showing, you have to fish all those tiny wires through the inside of the bars. If you're doing it yourself, my best advice is to grab a beer, some string, and a lot of patience. It's a "measure twice, swear once" kind of job. But man, once it's done and those bars are mounted with all the wires tucked away, it looks incredibly professional.
Choosing the right width and pull-back
Not all 14 inch apes are created equal. You've got to look at the "base width" and the "pull-back." The base width needs to match your triple trees; otherwise, it's going to look goofy. If the bars are too narrow at the bottom, they won't line up with your forks. If they're too wide, they'll hang off the edges.
The pull-back is even more important for your comfort. This is how far the bars curve back toward you. If you have shorter arms, you'll want more pull-back so you aren't reaching too far forward. If you're a taller rider with long arms, you might want the bars to be flatter so you can push them forward and get that "outlaw" look. A lot of guys like to line their apes up with the angle of the front forks, which usually looks the best, but don't be afraid to pull them back an inch or two if it makes the ride more enjoyable.
Why 14s over 16s or 12s?
I've ridden bikes with all different heights, and I keep coming back to the 14s. Why? Because 12s often feel like you almost got what you wanted, but stayed safe. You'll look at the bike a month later and wish you'd gone higher.
On the other hand, 16s are great for the "cool factor," but they can be a literal pain in the neck on long trips. Your hands end up above your heart, which can cause that pins-and-needles feeling in your fingers because the blood isn't flowing as easily. 14 inch apes keep your blood moving and your posture straight. They give you the height you want for the look, but they stay just below that threshold where the bike starts to feel "disconnected" from your inputs.
Final thoughts on making the jump
At the end of the day, your bike should be a reflection of how you want to ride. If you spend your weekends doing short hops between coffee shops or bar rallies, you can go as high as you want. But if you're the kind of person who likes to disappear into the mountains for three days at a time, you have to be practical.
14 inch apes represent that perfect middle ground where you don't have to compromise. You get the aggressive profile, you get the improved leverage for handling, and you get a riding position that actually lets you enjoy the scenery instead of focusing on your aching shoulders. It's one of those upgrades that, once you do it, you'll wonder why you waited so long to ditch the stock bars. Just make sure you get a good set of poly bushings to replace those soft rubber ones while you're in there—it'll keep the bars from feeling "mushy"—and you'll be good to go.